In Dimbleby’s words, it would be wrong to say that we “are powerless in the jaws of the machine”, but, as he shows, the machine is a formidable creation of supermarkets, food giants and fast-food chains. It isn’t that we’re greedy, but we are not entirely blameless either. In fact, he says, 28% of us are clinically obese, which is startling when you compare that with just 1% of the population in 1950, an age when the planet too was in far better nick. “Maintaining a healthy weight”, for the co-founder of Leon restaurants turned food campaigner, “has always been a struggle”.
It was, he admits, both “a bruising start to the day” and a tricky question to answer. O ne morning as he was getting up, Henry Dimbleby’s daughter asked him if he’d always been quite so chubby.
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